A bridge of sticky mango: introducing Chennai to Thai cuisine

For Chef Siriporn Krasaeat, popularly known as Chef Joy, introducing guests to the food of her homeland is just another part of the job



“In Chennai, the mango tastes a little different from that in Thailand,”says Chef Siriporn Krasaeat popularly known as Joy . The fruit is an inherent part of Thai cuisine, as is turmeric, but what the two countries do with these ingredients is vastly different.

As her guests' palates differ in each culture, there is plenty the chef has to keep in mind while designing a menu.

“For example, in a number of cities, I cannot make 100% non-vegetarian food,” she points out, adding, “In Chennai, we had to have some pure vegetarian options as well.” But her main focus remains on the joy of eating. “Instead of worrying about how authentic it is, I want people to enjoy the food. But I’m also here to make everyone know and experience Thai food.”

Having said that, the chef doesn’t shy away from the educational aspect of serving up her cuisine in a foreign land. Her basic tenet is that if one of her guests visits Thailand, they should know what to order and what to look out for.

Joy knows what it’s like to be in a land full of unfamiliar food. She had moved to Europe for higher education, right out of school in a humble Thai village. It took her some time to get used to the drastic change. Today, the chef has years of experience with a leading hotel in Delhi in her kitty, in addition to her current position at the Raintree, but her first taste of Indian food was in the Gulf. “I still remember the first time I had idlis, thanks to an Indian colleague there,” she says.

In the years she has spent in India, she has tasted everything from light idlis to hearty biryanis. But health food is her weakness; ask about her favourite dish, and she will talk about sprouts, lotus, pears… “I like food that is not too heavy, and is good for the body.”

She has seen the cuisine of her homeland grow in popularity around India — seen it spill out of elusive five-star properties and make its way into casual bistros and friendly little cafes. “There was a time when every place that served Thai food would use ingredients imported from Thailand,” Joy points out, “Not anymore. But they still try to give their guests the real Thai experience.” Confusions between “Indo-Chinese” and “Indo-Thai”, she observes, are also clearing upas food lovers get more and more educated.

“Tom yum and pad Thai are the dishes about 95% of the guests are familiar with,” she says. For everything else, there she is, ready to give this country a taste of sunflower sprouts through yum ton orn tantawan, fish cakes as tod man pla, and mango sticky rice in the form of khao neow ma muang.

In this series we feature people who continue to work as they travel.

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